Category: Jewelry

As the gold market continues its strong performance, dancing around the $1,000-per-ounce mark, more collectors are turning to vintage jewelry to add a unique touch to their wardrobes. Vintage jewelry expert Jill Burgum of Heritage Auctions in Dallas, Texas, gives advice on how to make sure your money is well spent.

Q: What’s your best advice for beginning jewelry buyers and collectors?

A: My most common advice is don’t be afraid to ask questions, whether you are buying from reputable dealers or from shops. There is also a lot of information you can find online. The Internet is a great way to educate yourself. Also, don’t expect that a modern jewelry seller or store will know much about vintage or estate jewelry. They often don’t because it’s simply not their market.

Q: Does “antique, vintage or estate” jewelry mean lesser quality?

A: Not at all! The common thread among those terms is that the item is previously owned, and there is a lot of value in purchasing estate or previously owned jewelry. First, you can get great deals. The premium paid when purchasing a brand new piece at full retail price will not be transferred once that same item is resold. It’s an excellent way to purchase designer names at a fraction of the original price. Also, purchasing estate jewelry is a fantastic way to acquire pieces with “Old World” craftsmanship. This is a lost art. Production costs are prohibitive in today’s market, making it unrealistic from a cost perspective to do a lot of the precision handwork you can find in older pieces of jewelry. Purchasing estate jewelry is also a wonderful way to acquire platinum-set jewelry. Traditionally, platinum jewelry holds its value better than gold jewelry. And don’t forget that you can find diamonds at a fraction of what you would pay at a new jewelry retailer. The savings can be amazing, up to 75 percent.

Q: What’s the one thing you have to look for when buying vintage jewelry?

A: Condition, condition, condition! Don’t overlook damage such as missing prongs, bends and dents.

Q: Anything buyers should be especially wary of?

A: I’m always careful when selecting items that appear as Art Deco. Ask if they really are Art Deco or “Art Deco style” or “Art Deco reproduction.” There will be a significant difference in value and potential resale. You should also ask if the piece is original. Was it always a pendant-brooch or was it originally a brooch that someone altered to make it wearable as a pendant, too? Was the bangle watch originally an Art Deco watch that was later centered in a gold bangle? This is referred to as a “marriage,” meaning a combining of elements, and it affects the piece’s originality and value.

Q: Anything else?

A: Make sure what you are buying is what it is purported to be. Gold vs. gold-filled. Real vs. synthetic. Gemstones vs. glass. You don’t want to purchase a gold jewelry item without gemstones and think that it will go up in value. The gold market fluctuates on a daily basis, but typically not in big enough swings to where you can make money, especially if an item is acquired when the gold market is high.

Q: So how do you distinguish between a good piece and a not-so-good piece?

A: Make sure to check for the quality of craftsmanship, finish, gemstones and repair. Ask yourself if the item is nicely detailed with clean or crisp edges. Check closely to see if the piece displays serious wear. Are there dents or cracks? Are there any signs of repair? Sometimes, yellow gold solder has been used to repair platinum jewelry by unskilled bench jewelers. Definitely keep a keen eye out for signs of lead solder repairs on antique jewelry as this affects the piece’s value. In the case of a bracelet, is the construction stiff vs. flexible? The more flexible piece is better designed and manufactured. Is the piece scratchy? That is a sign of either a new piece or lesser quality of manufacture. If gemstones are involved, are the colors clear, bright and lively? Are they of medium color? Generally, more commercially made items have lighter gemstones of lesser quality, meaning mass production. For diamonds, check the quality. Avoid diamonds that look like snowballs or diamonds appearing like gravel due to heavy inclusions.

Q: What are some of the most collectible names in vintage jewelry and why?

A: There are too many to list, but there are a few “top of the top.” Some of the firms noted for their exquisite designs and craftsmanship include Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Mauboussin, and Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. Their true vintage pieces, made prior to 1960 in Paris, command a premium. There are the rare designers, who are so exclusive that their pieces are unsigned, as in the case of JAR. Others produce limited quantities of very high-quality designs and to come across their works is the equivalent of finding treasures. These include Rene Boivin, Carven French, Pierre Sterle, and Janesich. Among contemporary names, Bvlgari, Harry Winston, Graff, and H. Stern all utilize the finest in both diamonds and colored gemstones.

Q: There seems to be controversy as to whether vintage jewelry is a good investment. What’s your take?

A: For the most part, not consider the majority of jewelry to be what most individuals would traditionally think of as a good investment. It typically isn’t high finance. Is it a money-maker on down the road? No. So why the interest or why should you purchase or care about vintage jewelry? Vintage jewelry, as with contemporary jewelry, is largely an emotional purchase. You have to ask: Does it make me feel good? Does the piece excite me? Do you get a visceral reaction or enjoyment? If the answer is yes, then that particular piece is a good investment in terms of the pleasure value. In my opinion, jewelry is meant to be worn and enjoyed. There is also the sentimental value factor that you attach to items. Was it the one-and-only engagement ring a woman wore? Was the item received for a special occasion such as the birth of a child, a birthday or a milestone? Or was the piece passed down through the generations of a family? Sentiment cannot be measured on the open market. It is entirely and uniquely personal.

Q: What if someone still wants to approach this as an investment?

A: To make a true financial investment, you may want to target designer name materials, because they have a better tendency to retain value or, in some instances, even increase in value. Or you may want to consider larger or higher quality diamonds or rare gemstones for investment purposes. Generally speaking, the items that will hold value are going to be beautifully executed and include fine diamonds or colored gemstones set in gold or platinum. As an aside, and would point out that there are far more pieces out in the marketplace that are unsigned vs. signed, but that should not be a negative factor or a reason to overlook them. Beautiful construction combined with fine materials will always be saleable and in demand.

AN EXPERT’S INSIGHTS
Noted vintage jewelry expert Jill Burgum, who received degrees in bench jewelry manufacturing from Bowman Tech and Stewart’s International and previously worked at Butterfield & Butterfield, offers these tips for today’s vintage jewelry market:

+ Trends: Jewelry follows fashion trends, even when looking at vintage and estate pieces. “Right now,” Burgum says, “1970s fashions are hot — so is yellow gold in textured forms. But be careful. The odds on nugget jewelry and rope chains coming back in style are not good.”

+ Quality: When establishing a jewelry wardrobe, look for timeless designs — a simple pair of moderately sized hoop earrings, three-stone rings, a tennis bracelet, diamond solitaire pendant, or stud earrings.

+ Care: Be aware of how you store your fine jewelry. “Don’t toss it into a jewelry box,” Burgum says. “Diamonds will scratch other gemstones as well as other diamonds.”

+ Upkeep: Keep your jewelry clean — it looks so much better, brighter and fresher. “Occasionally check to make sure stones are tight and not loose. Make sure your pearl necklaces do not have stretched silk cord — an indicator that they should be restrung before a potential loss or breakage occurs.”

+ Recycle: Keep in mind the “green factor” when looking at jewelry. If you have items that are (to you) outdated or damaged, turn it into cash that can be applied towards the purchase of something else you would like, or use the money to pay bills or take a trip. “The metal,” Burgum adds, “can also be melted and made into another item. Gemstones can be removed from one item and utilized in another. Be creative.”

When most people think of luxury jewelry, the first thing that comes to their minds is usually diamonds – lots and lots of diamonds. But it is important to remember that while a diamond is a girl’s best friend, there are lots of other stones in her inner circle, including rubies, emeralds, sapphires and garnets.

So, how do you know whether to choose a diamond ring or ruby necklace the next time you’re contemplating the perfect piece to complement your wardrobe? The trick is in deciding whether you want to pull the outfit more completely together or if you are looking to show off. Diamonds are the most obvious choice for showing off, but if you are wearing a business, white pant suit or flowy white dress, a colored stone is more likely to draw attention. You can go with a stunning ruby necklace that sparkles every time you turn your head or a pair of incredible emerald earrings that glisten; either way, eyes will be on you no matter where you go.

PREMIER GEMS’ SUBMISSION TO AGTA SPECTRUM AWARDS

Premier Gem’s owner Jeff Nechka’s submission to the AGTA Spectrum Awards this year. These platinum, Pink Spinel and diamond drop earrings with a price tag of $18,000 got him an honorable mention at the awards.

When pulling an outfit together, you will need to choose jewelry that matches the colors you are wearing. A red blouse and white skirt, for example, is begging for ruby earrings or a ruby ring. If you’re wearing an outfit that has an array of colors, you have a lot more freedom in picking jewelry. You can either choose a piece or pieces that match the most prolific color of your attire, or you can elect to go with jewels that will help bring out a background color.

If you are looking to add a touch of luxury to your outfit without overdoing it, diamonds are a classic, feminine touch. Choose a simple but elegant diamond ring in white gold. If you’re already wearing an impressive engagement or wedding ring and don’t want to overshadow it, try a pair of wonderful diamond studs. Of course, you can also combine diamonds and emeralds, for example, for a color combo that will both awe and draw envy.

What do you do if no matter how much you search, you can’t find a piece of jewelry that really makes your look pop? As a woman of high class and sophistication, you never settle. You wouldn’t be where you are now if you did that, right? What you do is create a custom piece. Before you start wrecking your perfect manicure over the fact that you aren’t a jewelry designer, know that you don’t have to be. Visit your favorite custom jeweler, and they will be able to help you construct the ring, necklace or pair of earrings that you’ve always fantasized about. Want a rose gold ring featuring diamonds and your birthstone? Dreaming of a necklace that exudes luxury but can go with every outfit? Whatever you want can be yours, quickly and easily.

Jewelry is a woman’s ultimate accessory. Rings and necklaces never go out of style, and they will certainly last longer than your favorite pair of heels or the scarf you bought on sale last week. They are also the part of your outfit that is sure to draw the most scrutiny. When you meet someone new and their eyes stray to your hands or neck, what do you want them to see? A ring or necklace that you sort of like but aren’t really proud of, or a sparkling, glistening piece of jewelry that is as opulent and magnificent as you are?

How is costume jewelry made?

1. Manmade stones such as cubic zirconia, rhinestone, glass, or plastic are a primary component of most costume jewelry. The most popular of which is cubic zirconia because of its physical characteristics. It is used to create simulated versions of precious gemstones such as diamonds, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Its sparkly appeal and inexpensive price tag allow for much larger, more glitzy fashion pieces that instantly attract attention. Colored glass can also be used to simulate precious stones and faux pearls. Rhinestone jewelry is also popular because of its glitzy appeal and color choices. Epoxy and acrylic are plastics that is often used to make inexpensive bead jewelry.

Instead of manmade stones sometimes semiprecious stones such as pearls, topaz, black opal, amethyst, or peridot are used to provide a more fine jewelry appeal.

2. A base metal such as tin, copper, brass, nickel, aluminum or a combination of metals that has been altered to resemble more precious metals (e.g. gold). This is achieved by a variety of methods including:

tone: Have you ever heard of costume jewelry that is referred to as silver or gold tone? This means just what the name implies. Tone refers to the color of the metal only. Gold and silver tone jewelry are silver and gold in color but contain no actual gold or silver.

electroplating: This is probably the most common method. In this process an electric current is used to deposit a thin layer, as little as 2 mils (a mil is one millionth of an inch) onto the base alloy metal which is immersed in a salt bath solution of the precious metal that will be used to plate the object.

layering: This method also utilizes the process of electroplating. However, the plated object is immersed for a longer period of time allowing for a much thicker layer of precious metal to be deposited. Layered gold or silver may consist of approximately 20-50 mils of gold or silver. Although it doesn’t sound like much, this thicker layer results in a much more durable, longer lasting jewelry piece especially when coated with a protective material such as Tarniban which is an organic substance that provides a protective shield and adds to the hardness of the metal.

overlay: This method utilizes heat rather than electricity to combine the base metal with the precious metal to form a new alloy. This creates a permanent bond between the metals which creates jewelry that can be as durable and long lasting as the real thing with proper care. Gold overlay jewelry is also sometimes referred to as gold filled. It is generally safer for sensitive skin than costume jewelry made by other methods.

Technibond: This is considered to be one of the most desired methods of gold plating because it uses a full 40 mils of 14kt gold over .925 sterling silver. For gold and silver lovers it is the best of both worlds. However, as with any plated item, a protective coating should be added for best results.

vermeil: Vermeil is considered to be the absolute best in gold plating. This type of jewelry contains as much as 100 mils of gold over .925 sterling silver and as you can expect is also a bit pricier. It may be worth it for someone looking for something closer to the real thing without paying the exorbitant price for solid gold.

3. Costume jewelry may also consist of odd materials such as wood, stone, and shell which can be either natural or colored.

Caring for your costume jewelry

Although costume jewelry doesn’t require much of an investment, it is still important to get the most bang for your buck by taking proper care of your jewelry by following a few simple steps:

NEVER allow costume jewelry to come in contact with oils, soaps, perfumes, or any harsh chemicals which can fade or even ruin the item.

ALWAYS remove jewelry before sports, swimming, exercising, washing hands, showering, cleaning, doing laundry, or applying lotions or creams.

NEVER store jewelry wet. Always dry with a soft cloth before storing.

Store your jewelry items seperately in sealable bags to prevent scratching.

Store jewelry in a clean, dry, cool, not cold place away from heat and dust.

When cleaning, be gentle! Use a soft toothbrush and jewelry cleaner that specifically states that it is safe for costume jewelry. Make sure it does not contain acid, alcohol, or ammonia. Only use jewelry cleaner as directed. DO NOT over scrub.

Only use a cloth specially made for jewelry when buffing.

Regularly check for loose stones.

Why choose costume jewelry?

Costume jewelry, also referred to as fashion jewelry, is a fun and inexpensive way to express your own unique style. Its less costly composition means that it is easy to get your moneys worth of use out of it and allows for a much larger variety of bigger, bolder, attention grabbing colors and styles that can be mixed and matched according to your mood or wardrobe.

Three popular diamond jewelry design genres

According to the international diamond industry authority, De Beers Diamond Information Centre concluded that: the world’s three popular diamond jewelry design genres can be summarized as simple, back to nature and classical decoration, specifically described as follows:

One of the mainstreams: simple

“Less is more”, once popular in the architectural art in early years. Then, simply styled principles were adapted to the modern diamond jewelry design.

Line succinct smooth, simple overall structure, are the main characteristic of this style. Soft and smooth appearance of vehicles, light and dark patchwork of sand dunes, soft colors and elegant marble and constant change of the pyramid are the perfect performance.

That jewelry belongs to this style, not only diamond jewelry but also rings, earrings, pendants, bracelets, all appeared simple bright.

Mainstream II: Return to Nature

Vigorous nature have a more powerful charisma to the people who live in modern city all day. When human gradual loss primitive land, forests, rivers, in this year, the growing environmental problems in people’s lives have become a new focus. So, human embrace of nature again.

The trend of return to natural affect the diamond jewelry design.

Beautiful leaves, interesting shell, full of vitality sunflower, wonderful zebra, have become a source of inspiration for jewelry designers.

The “Return to Nature” designs not only accurately reflect the wonder of the natural world, but also create a more concise results.

People can smell fresh breath of pristine nature from the petal-like ring, the hippocampus-shaped pins, and water droplets earrings.

Mainstream three: classicism

Human seem to never forget their own civilization. Therefore, the retro trend will come back in a few years, and have stronger trend. That is classicism.

Different from the modern stream of consciousness which praise highly simply very much, classicism in many countries stress beautiful colors and complex structure. For example: Roman-style decorative relief, the Chinese Ming and Qing style crafted stone bridge, the Gothic steeple of the building, the mysterious primitive tribes.

Those all become the subject matter of classicism jewelry, classical jewelry characterized by beautiful colors, well-designed jewelry pattern and profile, elaborate complex structures.

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Kundan jewelry is all the rage amongst Indian women these days. You see these eye-catching and fascinating pieces in almost every serial on television as well as stars wearing them on the silver screen. Indian jewelry has always been in terrific demand both by Indian women and abroad. Yet, it is the kundan jewellery, which has made the most prominent style statement these days. If you are going to get married soon, then you definitely should wear kundan jewellery to highlight your glowing beauty on your most special day!

Coral colors galore

The range of authentic silver bangle is found in many different colors, all of which suit the Indian skin tone and attire. These colors range from warm coral pink tones to burnt orange, fuchsia pink, turquoise blue, brilliant red to even maroon shades. These colors and designs found in kundan jewelry are perfect for all brides to be. They look traditional and yet are not too overpowering in their appeal. Young brides can wear such Indian kundan jewellery to complement their lehengas or sarees. For example, this turquoise kundan jewelry with matching necklace, earrings and tikka will perfectly complement a turquoise blue lehenga with gold zari work or even a blue sari with diamond embellishments. Since spring is round the corner, such coral colors are very in and in vogue and are the perfect choice for all Indian brides!

Why choose kundan jewelry?

There are many different kinds of Indian jewelry to choose from these days, ranging from choker hansli jewelry to polki jewelry to many others. Yet, when it comes to traditional bridal jewelry, it is the Indian kundan jewellery, which makes a lasting impression. The intricate kundan work on these handmade Indian jewelry pieces are a classic, which never go out of style. These are especially meant for heavy Indian attire, such as worn on weddings and other auspicious occasions. The saturated jewel tones of such indian gold jewelry pieces perfectly complement a bride and bring out her inner beauty and radiance! You find many cute colors within this range of Indian jewelry such as light pink tones, deep jewel maroon tones and many other rich colors. The whole set comprises necklace, earrings and matching tikka, to go with the brides ensemble perfectly.

Bombay Jewelry simply the best!

Bombay Jewelry has been in the business of making fine, crafted Indian kundan jewellery for many years now. Their collection of exquisite kundan jewelry is truly stunning and includes a large range of designs and colors to suit the Indian preferences. The designs provided in Bombay Jewelrys collection of kundan jewelry is trendy and yet traditional. Compared to the earlier designs, these are the latest trendy designs and meant to flatter any bride on her wedding day! Therefore, if you wish to look your best on your wedding day, be sure to pick out some of these stunning kundan pieces from Bombay Jewelry.